07 Mustang GT Premium Question/Problem

[poohbear]

OH and yes his cam management could cause the issue but that's not due to oil changes that's due to lack of oil changes if the shit is clogged... Its also doubtful the problem would go away and only come back when the oil reached its end life... However hes making it sound like hes thinks the oil is making the problem... I doubt it... So rule out other factors... I would love to know why checking the plugs when hes getting hesitation and bucking is a bad idea?

Asking about mods on the car is extremely relevant too. And asking to see if he is getting abnormal oil in his intake track is also relevant considering he thinks its all his oil...

Yes it is a strange problem like you said... So most likely its something else... Doubtful oil would make this happen if he is at the same level and not burning any off...

[dark6]

You could be getting blow by... When oil begins to mix with the gas it will lower the octane and cause pre detonation and misfires...<< WHAT lower the octane how the hell do you do that? the statement makes no sense at all! the oil and fuel is seprate, and if the fuel is mixing with the oil in a injected car you have way bigger problems not to mention if the fuel is mixed with the oil how in the heck is it going to burn it in the crank case, and if it does the you are going to see mass oil burning. However that severe of blow by would be followed by the site of burning oil or lower oil on the stick; which you say you dont have... I would pull a few plugs and read them see how they are first... Misfires can be generated by any number of things. Since you are not burning oil, i would start and think maybe it s a coincidence you are getting this problem near the change time. Check your PCV system and inlet for oil as an indication of blow by as well<< not always it is normal to see oil in the lines.. With the weather swings we have been having general maintenance can help this from happening like cleaning your MAF frequently...Keep cleaning it you will be buying a new one and unless the car has high miles, this is unnessary
.
Are you throwing misfire codes? How do you know its a misfire and not detonation? The car will pull timing when a knock is sensed Or both? Have you thrown any codes at all? What modifications are done to the car? As an example > Long tubes and a tune that is properly done will shorten the life span of your o2 sensors by raising the heat cycles to cope.How does the o2 sensor raise "heat cycles" Long tubes do NOTHING to the o2 sensor Bad o2 sensors can create misfires...only two times have I seen this in 16 years

EDIT>>> Not trying to freak you out... I remember seeing a GT that had a similar issue, it was a broken ring land. The oil when it was new created a good seal but as it aged it lost compression... This was a rare circumstance though and wouldn't think that until you look at the plugs first ... This was also followed with heavy oil consumption

I dont even know where to start in the mess of miss information so there is some examples above.

[dark6]

OH and yes his cam management could cause the issue but that's not due to oil changes that's due to lack of oil changes if the shit is clogged..Because oil gets dirty and a 4 micron flake can cause a phazer to STICK thus the come and going of the problem.. Its also doubtful the problem would go away and only come back when the oil reached its end life... However hes making it sound like hes thinks the oil is making the problem... I doubt it... So rule out other factors... I would love to know why checking the plugs when hes getting hesitation and bucking is a bad idea?

Asking about mods on the car is extremely relevant too.I agree but what you asked would have any tech shaking their head And asking to see if he is getting abnormal oil in his intake track is also relevant considering he thinks its all his oil...Oil in the intake is normal just not lots.


Yes it is a strange problem like you said... So most likely its something else... Doubtful oil would make this happen if he is at the same level and not burning any off...

There is some more.

[Reactor]

No check engine light, in fact... no lights at all on the dash.

Hmmm.... changed oil tonight. Not the same effect as the last couple of times. Still a slight misfire under light acceleration. Sounds and feels fine at idle and hard acceleration.

[poohbear]

I dont even know where to start in the mess of miss information so there is some examples above.

Let me educate you then... Oil gets placed in with the fuel and air and lowers the octane value of the charge creating a possible detonation event... Especially in lower tolerance cars... Oil with fuel means a different octane and not in teh direction that would benefit the pistons. Whether its a dilution of fuel or whatever, it doesnt matter; oil in the intake can create knock, knock from a lowering of the octane of the intake charge. You're ASE how do you not know that can happen? Do you understand why an AOS is referred to as cheap motor insurance? This was an example and extreme but like i said before the OP thinks its oil so that was relevant... And no you wouldn't always see oil burning... I see several motors on a regular bassis burning enough oil to make detonation a possibility and recommend an AOS (1 qt between changes when tuned)... Blow by will be relative to how much load you're placing on the car... IE higher revs ect... And when in those higher revs its especially important to be aware and prevent this from happening... I also mentioned that you would at the very least see oil consumption on the sip stick.. Which he is not... You can burn more than a quart every 750 or so and you wouldn't necessarily see it...

AS for oil in his intake track - I meant to look for over average oil in the lines... I shoudl have been more specific... But then again I would think most people would know that on here...

How do you raise duty cycle on the heater in the o2 snesor? Why do you think I asked about the tune and long tubes... This is another example... But then again you think long tubes dont effect o2's... You have obviously never been inside an ecu or dyno have you? Do you know how modern cars work? HOw do long tubes have nothing to do with the sensors? Are you serious? What happens to the sensors when you place logn tubes on? In most cases, they run cooler... I wonder if that has to do with the increased flow? So you raise the duty cycle on the sensors to keep them at temp easier... An o2 sensor isnt all that accurate cold... We have compared the afr corrections on long tubes against and afm-1000 in both cases with additional duty and not... And we we have seen as much as .5 a point off... thats a big deal... I have seen 3 bad o2 sensors this month... ALL CREATED MISS FIRES... I wonder if they created misfires due to afr corrections being off? hmmm you should look that up. You should get out more if you have only seen 2 o2's go bad in 16 years...

I see the need to clean a maf on cars regularly when they have aftermarket filters... Its a cheap easy check... And since I dont know what he has done to the car it was worth mentioning... I clean mine regularly every 6 months or so... And I do see a change in my stored AFR correction averages... IN the direction on would expected from a dirty sensor... This is typical practice especially on a modified car... But then again I did ask what mods he had done if any and that would rule this out...

Ford knock senors are worthless... You need to use det cans to be accurate with the 4.6 motors... the coyotes are different... But your an ASE tech you should know that...

I cant tell if your just trolling me or being serious and just dont know how modern cars work...

EDIT--- Im puling from memory but i think ford runs the heater duty on the o2's at around 30% or some junk... In most cases i see them needing being upped to over 70 ish % with good long tubes...

[Catchup]

[dark6]

No check engine light, in fact... no lights at all on the dash.

Hmmm.... changed oil tonight. Not the same effect as the last couple of times. Still a slight misfire under light acceleration. Sounds and feels fine at idle and hard acceleration.

In this case, pull your coils check for avery blue spark do it when it is dark if any are yellow replace them. Also pull your plugs now and check the tubes for wetness and down the side of the plug for carbontracking on the white part of the plug..if so replace the coil boots and plugs, Becarefull because the threevalves plugs like to break off in the head..I have the extractor tool if need be or I can take care of the wholething for you. They make a "fix"spark plug so they do not break the next time.

[Bunke]

this

[philthethrill]

Im ready to fight

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[poohbear]

In this case, pull your coils check for avery blue spark do it when it is dark if any are yellow replace them. Also pull your plugs now and check the tubes for wetness and down the side of the plug for carbontracking on the white part of the plug..if so replace the coil boots and plugs, Becarefull because the threevalves plugs like to break off in the head..I have the extractor tool if need be or I can take care of the wholething for you. They make a "fix"spark plug so they do not break the next time.

Wow pull your plugs? I wonder if i mentioned to that before? That seams logical thanks for that... I must have no idea what im talking about... GOod thing you were here man... To save from all that miss information i was giving